Victoria Beach and the Landscape of Imagination

Above Victoria Beach the crush and height of new homes hides the view itself; like mussels clustered over sea rock, it's hard to see what lies beneath. Traveling by car, one

easily misses the turnoff for this section of the Laguna coast. The narrow streets, with little parking, do not favor traveling by car; it is on foot, walking with someone who knows this place by memory, that you find the narrow stairway that leads to the sea.

Fifteen years ago I remember the first time I walked down the long flight of concrete stairs with my wife; a narrow passage between homes and fences. Watching her excitement, I began to realize that I was walking toward some early memory of hers.

Reaching the long, sand beach I was surprised when my wife took my hand and led me away from the shore and sunbathers. Toward the rocks, she led me away from the sand, along a narrow, rock shelf beneath the overhanging cliffs. Careful not to slip on seaweed, we walked further into the sound of crashing surf, and there it was. Set into the wave-covered reef itself was a crumbling circle of concrete, a salt water pool nearly 30 feet across, it's watery, calm surface in total contrast to the white foam, lifting in spray against its side.

The author at his home in Juneau, nicknamed after his wife's girlhood playground in Laguna Beach. Further back, against the cliff itself, was a castle tower. Sixty feet tall, large enough to hide a spiral staircase within its base, made from the rocks of the sea itself. Far above, on the shingled turret, just as my wife said there would be, a small pirate flag, the skull and crossbones, grinned and flew against the wind. All the while, on all sides was the thunder and spray of the ocean surf. It was like standing on the ocean itself, inside a rare circle of calm, the fairy tale finger of a castle tower, pointing to the blue California sky. My wife had led me to her spot, and I was dazzled.

As a fourth generation Californian, I had given up on the Golden Land long ago, spending 30 years in Alaska. Here, in one silent walk, my wife had shown me why she had always called this place home, and here for 15 years I have come, every year, to sit with her in this spot, letting the sound of surf and the feel of sun wash the memory of winter from mind and body.

The author's wife, known as Lacey, playing in the saltwater pool beneath the turret during a recent visit. Then came my wife's question, "Who made this tower and pool?" and that question became a quest often leading to more queries than answers. Loving my wife, and wanting to please her I have sought answers beyond reasonable imagining, and through this search I have come to know some of Laguna Beach, its wonderful people and history. One often hesitates to share what has been treasured in secret, but it is important to speak what is known before tide and time remove all trace and memory. I am a grateful visitor, and this story of this tower and pool, and the people around it belongs to Laguna Beach.

Three men, who in many ways lived and prospered by their own imaginations, were drawn to this unique point of land, building a spot that has long served as a magical and safe location in the lives of many generations of "children," young and old. These three men were Senator William Edward Brown, who created the concrete tower staircase; Howard Krumm, who created the concrete saltwater swimming pool; and the colorful character of Harold H. Kendrick, who later owned the Brown residence, and who filled many children's lives with visions of "pirates, cash and questions."

Historic images of the Victoria Beach tower. The cliffside location has served as a type of magnet, drawing a series of early artists, whose colorful paintings caught the eye of Senator Brown and others. So please join with me in examining the history of this westward-reaching, oceanside finger of land that has brought a sense of "seaside sanctuary" to many. Join in helping form a clear collective memory, before time and tide removes the greatest sandcastle of them all.

Originally a fourth generation Californian from Marin County, Mark Whitman has resided in Alaska for the last 30 years. He currently works as the circulation supervisor of the Juneau Public Library. In the past he worked as a professional storyteller, and has now combined his passion for researching Alaskan history with those presentation skills. He has given several presentations in the Juneau area on the history of the Chinese in Alaska and the Northwest, as well as the early history of the Russian American Company.

His wife Patricia, a fourth generation Californian as well, was conceived in Laguna Beach in 1953, and resided there from the 1950s to the early 1970s.

May Heritage Month Events

Saturday, May 16, 10 a.m. to noon: free, guided walk of historic downtown Laguna led by Heritage Committee member Rick Gold. Meets at Laguna Beach Library, 363 Glenneyre Street.

Sunday, May 17, Charm House Tour, departs from Festival of Arts, 650 Laguna Canyon Road, beginning at noon through 3:30 p.m. The homes will be available for touring until 5:30 p.m. For additional information, call 472-7503.

Monday, May 18, Mark Whitman will give a free presentation about Victoria Beach and Norman House from 7:30 to 9:30 p.m. in the City Hall Council Chambers, 505 Forest Avenue.

Saturday, May 23, 10 a.m. to noon: free, guided walk of North Laguna cottages led by Carl Iverson and Rick Gold. Meet at Madison Square & Garden Café, 320 N. Coast Highway.

May 1-31: Take a self-guided Heritage Tour. Ride the bus and tour historic neighborhoods in North and South Laguna by using the "Heritage Walking Companion Self-Guided Tour" brochure that is available on City buses or at City Hall.

Weekends from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.: Visit the Historical Society's Murphy-Smith House, located at 278 Ocean Avenue. Peruse photos of Laguna past.